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  16 Again

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Except that I got my original braces off when I was about 14. That was 30 years ago.  And I couldn’t wait until that day came. But here I am again with a mouth half full of metal. I had braces put on my top teeth yesterday. I may or may not get them on the bottom eventually but for now I wear my TMJ appliance on the bottom at night with rubber bands pulling my bottom jaw forward. The plan right now is that I will be in braces for about two years and when it is all said and done I should be able to close my mouth with my teeth meeting properly in the back and my jaw in the proper position so I don’t continue to have jaw problems. He’s actually gradually pulling my teeth down and growing bone so my teeth meet properly. Sounds kind of painful doesn’t it? We’ll see.

Right now the biggest pain is that the insides of my cheeks are all raw from rubbing against the brackets. I guess I’ll have to put that gross wax over everything for a few days. But the best thing about this time versus the first time; I’m not in marching band anymore. I think playing a brass instrument with braces should be considered a form of capital punishment. Also my skin is a lot better now and I’m not wearing a pair of super thick eyeglasses with tinted lenses.

weddingThat’s me with  my Mom & sisters,, I’m the one closest to Mom. (I made that suit!) My sisters were already past their awkward stage, me not so much. And what’s with my hair? Looks like I slept on it funny or something. This was either Easter morning or someone’s graduation. I’m guessing it was Pam’s graduation because she was wearing Raider Red.Bertha

But this is where I started. Just look at those jacked up teeth! That’s what thumb sucking for way too many years will do to a face. That was not a home-sewn blouse but I remember it. I think it was from Montgomery Wards and I thought I was the shit in that thing. And those glasses, good Lord those glasses. I was hipster before it was hip.

For some reason all copies of the year I had the really bad perm, braces, big glasses and a permanent scowl on my face are missing. I’m sure one of my sisters has them locked away in a safe for future embarrassment.

 

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  Bernina Foot #70: Run and Fell Foot

Bernina USA website for #70/71 foot.

This is one of the feet Steve got me for Christmas. (I think I wrote down the wrong number when I gave him my list, I really wanted the #71 which is wider and for denim but I’m not complaining, I’ll buy that one myself and still get use out of this one.) This isn’t a foot I’ll use often but like so many Bernina feet, when you need it nothing else will do the job quite as well or as precisely.

I’ll show you step by step how to use this foot. Also the above link to the Bernina website has a great little video showing the foot in action.

Step 1: Align your fabric WRONG sides together with the bottom fabric 5mm beyond the edge of the top fabric.flat fell foot 002

Step 2:  Fold bottom fabric over edge of top fabric and place under the foot.

flat fell foot 003

I use the point of my seam ripper to carefully poke the top corner of the folded fabric under the foot and needle. I then take a stitch or two and stop with my needle down to hold everything while I maneuver the folded edge of the fabric into the foot the way I want it.  flat fell foot 004

Sew down the seam keeping the bottom fabric folded over the raw edge of the top fabric. flat fell foot 005

The finished first seam. The raw edge of the top fabric is wrapped with the bottom fabric.flat fell foot 006

Step 3: Press seam and open it out, I don’t press it flat though. I find that it helps to get it under the needle and then take a few stitches and stop with the needle down so I can rearrange the fabric and get it placed in the foot properly. This also where having the Free Hand System (knee lift) comes in really handy! flat fell foot 007

Sew down the seam. The foot will fold the edge over and stitch exactly along the edge giving a perfectly top-stitched finish.flat fell foot 008

This sample was sewn with bright green in the needle and grey in the bobbin. flat fell foot 011This sample was sewn with bright green in both the needle and the bobbin. My bobbin stitching doesn’t look as perfect in this sample as the above one because I didn’t have it threaded perfectly. Usually the two rows of stitching will be exact and perfectly parallel like they are in the above sample. flat fell foot 012

The result is a perfectly finished seam with no raw edges. Where would you use this technique? This narrower one would be perfect for sewing side seams in lightweight blouses instead of a French seam. The advantage over a French seam is that this type lies flat. You see this seam finish in men’s dress shirts. This type of seam is very strong so it is good for seams that get a lot of stress. The most common use of a wider flat-fell seam is in denim jeans. I made a pair of stretch denim jeans for a store sample this fall and plan on making myself a pair soon so I will be going back and getting that #71 foot. I love the way this seam finish looks, so professional. I’m at the point in my sewing career that I want my home-sewn items to look as good if not better than store bought and this is just another way to achieve that goal.

At a later date I will share with you a couple short cuts you can use to achieve a flat-felled look in fewer steps and less time. Because we all know that I also like to get projects done fast!

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  Out with the old, in with the new

015Dear Minerva is being put out to pasture. She’ll be kept around for decorative purposes but I’ve removed her extra waistline padding and returned to her original Edwardian shape. She’s been a fun old gal and come in handy if for nothing more than company and to model the odd garment here and there. 014I did let her stay in the sewing room this week while I worked on a project and watched the first season of Downton Abbey. She loved the clothes, they brought back fond memories of her younger years.

But it was time for a more youthful assistant. A new gal with a more useful (if not necessarily youthful) shape. Meet Bertha. I’m sure Bertie and I will get along famously and she will be a very handy friend to have around. I ordered her from here. Unfortunately I haven’t had any opportunity to play dress up with her yet.

017

This is the project I’ve been working on this week. A friend of mine and the breeder of my dog, Castiel, asked me to make ribbon quilts a while back. She offered to help promote them at dog shows and among her dog training friends and customers. I agreed but the “business” hadn’t really taken off. Which has been okay with me because I had been plenty busy as it was and to be honest, these aren’t that much fun to make. The ribbons are stiff and difficult to work with. But I’m not one to say no to a challenge and any time I can make a little money using my talents is always welcome. This order came in right before Thanksgiving when I was in the midst of directing a show, holiday work hours, going on vacation (Hawaii! I should share photos!) and general Xmas craziness. I honestly didn’t spend more than a few hours in my sewing room from Thanksgiving until New Years. I made the green wool jersey top and a stuffed owl for my Grand-niece (which the dogs got a hold of before I could mail it and I have to redo) and that was it. So this week it was my main priority and in my usual time-crunch manner I got it done in just over two days and change.

Now I can focus on new project for the New Year. I’m not sure where I’ll start. I’m kind of in the mood to crochet something. I have a friend that really wants a “Roseanne Blanket” and I found a pattern that I really like that will also help in the goal of working through some stash: Wool Eater Blanket. I’m also working on these, When Jack Met Sally Mitts.  Winter is always good for having “lap” projects to work on while watching tv with the family or riding in the car.

What are your new projects for the new year? Did Santa (or UPS) bring you any fun new tools to use in your sewing room? I got a bag full of new Bernina feet that I intend to try out and post about their uses in the next few weeks.

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